Qabu by Paco Morales Review: Experience the past on a plate

The culinary historian opens a new restaurant at One&Only One Za’abeel in Dubai. 

Inspiration. Restaurants throughout the world talk about inspiration, and it can often sound like half-baked ideas. Spanish chef Paco Morales, however, can be described as a culinary historian – he puts the past on the plate. At Qabu by Paco Morales in One&Only One Za’abeel, he creates Andalusian cuisine and draws inspiration from his hometown in Córdoba, Spain as well as the venue’s location in Dubai.

Paco was destined for a culinary career. His dad ran a local restaurant in Córdoba, The Asador de Nati. He went on to work with gastronomical giants, from Ferran Adrià at El Bulli to Martín Berasategu at Lasarte-Oria. In 2010, he was awarded his first MICHELIN star for Paco Morales in Bocairente. In 2016, he was awarded a MICHELIN Star for Noor in Córdoba —and it went on to receive two MICHELIN Stars in less than three years. 

Qabu itself means cellar or vault in Arabic and is a place where ingredients are stored. Paco loves to discover long lost ingredients, techniques and recipes, and shares stories through dishes. He reveals: “The word unique is used a lot, but this is truly unique. I want to change the concept of fine dining in Dubai. We are preparing a cultural and historical journey, and draw inspiration from the eighth to tenth century. If you are interested in culture and curious, then this is for you. I want customers to return and discover new flavours.”

After navigating The Link’s labyrinth layout and lots of lifts, diners are rewarded with Qabu by Paco Morales. The venue boasts Insta-worthy views of Dubai, and showcases the star of the skyline, the Burj Khalifa. The design is smart and sophisticated, and combines contemporary finishes with old world charm. The décor includes hand painted plates, ornate vases and a tree with trinkets. Plus, the welcome begins with a 16th-century hand washing ceremony – hot towels are replaced with a gold jug. 

Qabu by Paco Morales is open for dinner, and the menu is like a history lesson. An à la carte menu is available with starters, mains and desserts. For the full experience, choose one of the tasting menus, which are available with wine pairings. We had the Al Andalus 11-course tasting menu, which costs AED 895. 

Dressed in Moroccan-inspired outfits, the waiters were some of the most enthusiastic and knowledgeable we’ve met. We learnt about ingredients along the way, from honey in Egypt to pistachios in Syria. One waiter explained: “Tomatoes were thought to be poisonous in the United States”. 

Dinner starts with beautiful bites, from Turmeric Toast with salt-cured lamb loin to Eggplant Beignet with cane honey. The Mandarin Gelee with Escabeche with sea bass looked like a Jackson Pollock painting, as the cherry tomatoes added colour to the cuisine. The Pistachio Karim with smoked herring caviar and green apple was zing-tastic and bursting with fresh flavours. 

The mains were where the experience excelled. And, when the Wild Sea Bass with flat bean and zucchini was served, the waiter held up a framed drawing deconstructing the dish. The dinner ended with a Fake Mint Sponge Cake with orange blossom sorbet and cloves and a signed menu from the chef himself. 

Make time to visit Qabu by Paco Morales’  beautiful bar, which serves signature cocktails. The drinks range from the Agua de Valencia with cava, gin and lemon, to Carajillo with espresso, kahlua and rum. Plus, the mocktails include a Kaffir Fizz, Limonata and Palomita. 

Qabu by Paco Morales: A memorable meal with ingredients, innovation and, of course, inspiration. 

GO: Visit www.oneandonlyresorts.com for more information.